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Thread: Locked Up's SCX10 - Trail Ready H2

  1. #21
    SCALE PERFORMANCE PARTS Locked Up's Avatar
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    Re: Patricks SCX10 ... 20" blades on the HUMPALA

    More interesting of an update tonight.
    Today's pics:
    http://www.noeither.com/rc/pictures/200 ... 14-091.htm

    The parts are rolling in .....


    I got the hand brothers 3-link & chassis servo mount installed. It's a very well made unit and I was please as I installed it. However, because I am running the suspension "jacked up" there was a lot of bind in the steering at full droop. I could not even connect the drag link to the pitman, uh ...servo arm.


    I also noticed that because I was running so high there was a lot of arc in the trackbar moving the axle to the driverside with droop and to the pass side under compression:


    So I had two problems with the geometry. While playing around with everything I also noticed that the trackbar & draglink didn't seem to be on the same plane. It seemed like the axle end of the draglink needed to come up a bit to get them even ... at least on my truck.

    So I decided to raise up the steering and lucky for me I carry spare everything from my comp rig, so a set of Vanquish high steer knuckles went in next. But then I knew I'd have bumpsteer, so I had to address the trackbar. I could not think of a good way to lower the frame end so I decided to raise the axle end. I'm sure there are a ton of ways to do this but this is what I decided on. I felt like the trackbar only needed to come up 8mm as opposed to the 14mm rise I'd get from the knuckles. But how to raise the trackbar mount? This required me to cut the Hand Bros. bracket in half. No pics yet but you'll get the idea.

    I cut the part that connects to the diff away from the part that connects to the outer housing/trackbar. The part that goes to the diff I used longer screws and locknuts to add strength when remounted. For the part that attaches to the trackbar and outer housing I did a little dremel work on the inside of the housing so I could fit a nut in there for extra strength. I tried using a grub screw (I was gonna just glue it all in there) but I don't have grub screws long enough to allow me to add the spacer I wanted. Here is the first attempt:



    Unfortunately, the next pic sucks but you will see I used a cap head screw, 8mm worth of spacers all down into the housing (front half) and have a nut inside the housing. Use lock-tite liberally on that inner nut.


    Here you can see the two axle halves together. I think with the nut inside it will be plenty strong. Since I had it apart anyway I slapped in some CVDs.


    I ended up removing the little spacer between the steering linkage. Another option would have been to raise the trackbar another 2mm but I think this allows for more compression.

    Anyway, the result is perfect.
    Perfect alignment under compression and droop. I couldn't be happier...
    Droop:

    Compressed:


    Here is a shot so you can see how I cut the bracket:

    Woohoo!


    I also took a few pics of the rear mount with the gas tank and modded shock hoops as I had a few questions about those.

    Now I just have eleventy billion other things to do. :mrgreen:
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  2. #22
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    Re: Patricks SCX10 ... 20" blades on the HUMPALA

    looks good, looks like you were able too get it with very little bump steer..nice.
    Don't fix it if it's not broke. Now thats just stupid...
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  3. #23
    Addicted to RC Tommy R's Avatar
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    Re: Patricks SCX10 ... 20" blades on the HUMPALA

    So the drag link doesn't bind up as it cycles/articulates?

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  4. #24
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    Re: Patricks SCX10 ... 20" blades on the HUMPALA

    Quote Originally Posted by Tommy R
    So the drag link doesn't bind up as it cycles/articulates?
    Nope.

    Once I install the clocked axle C's I'll have to look things over again and may have to adjust the trackbar mount.
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  5. #25
    Addicted to RC Tommy R's Avatar
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    Re: Patricks SCX10 ... 20" blades on the HUMPALA

    Mucho excellente!

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  6. #26
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    Re: Patricks SCX10 ... 20" blades on the HUMPALA

    it sux it has to be just right or it doesnt work right... good job i had a epic fail ... its worth teh 45$ cuz im retarded lol

  7. #27
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    Re: Patricks SCX10 ... 20" blades on the HUMPALA

    I had an interesting day today.

    Since I got my electronics in I decided to go ahead and mount them. First I tried mounting them all inside the dashboard. It would have worked but it also would have required me to add a bunch of plugs and it would have been a PITA when pulling the body off.

    So I gave up on that idea and decided to mount the electronics in the "engine bay".

    I used the battery plate for ... my battery:


    Then I cut up a Dewalt drill bit box and a length of Delrin stick to make a shelf:


    Here it is coming together:


    While doing the electronics shelf I decided to black out the wheel well ... or at least get started. Paper template:


    I was walking around trying to think of where I could get some thin black plastic to make the wheel well liners and I remembered I had an old CD case lying around. This is the part that slips into the outer case:


    Here is a shot with the engine lined and the top of the wheel well. Additional trimming still needed:



    Finished shot of electronics and liners:



    Never able to leave well enough alone ...
    I decided it was time to address my front bumper. I didn't like the fact that the bumper is attached to the body and not the chassis. So I started cutting stuff up. I cut all the lights brackets & pieces in half saving what I needed for the upper lights only. Then I chopped the bumper in half making sure ot leave the parts to mount the headlights:


    The grill attached to the body alone now with just a small piece of the lower bumper for the headlights mounts on the back:


    After considering reusing the stock bumper I decided to go with some angle instead:



    Almost done. Still need to finish trim, clean and paint it .... then do the rear:


    I also think it made it cleaner underneath:


    More pics of it all in this gallery:
    http://www.noeither.com/rc/pictures/200 ... 15-091.htm


    Tomorrow I hope to get the body better mounted to the chassis in the rear, to fudge with the rear bumper.... and do some work on the interior.
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  8. #28
    Member themexxxican's Avatar
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    Re: Patricks SCX10 ... 20" blades on the HUMPALA

    Hey Patrick, your H2 is really coming along. I like the way you did the front bumper and the wheel wells and liners. That was a GREAT idea :thumbsup: . Keep up the great job you are doing.
    If u can't walk....CRAWL!!!

  9. #29
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    Re: Patricks SCX10 ... 20" blades on the HUMPALA

    electronics are prefect, hidden and all the weight is in the right place too. Good job. I really like the fender wells too.
    Don't fix it if it's not broke. Now thats just stupid...
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  10. #30
    SCALE PERFORMANCE PARTS Locked Up's Avatar
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    Re: Locked Up's SCX10 - Trail Ready H2

    **I have changed the name of this project as I decided to go bling-less**



    Pics from last night:
    http://www.noeither.com/rc/pictures/200 ... 16-091.htm


    I had decided to go ahead and mount the interior to the body and the body to the chassis .... separately. From the factory the interior mounted to the body in the front, but to the rear bumper in the back. The chassis was mounted to the body in the front but the interior in the back. Stupid setup.


    To mount the interior to the body in the rear, I put in some posts. After installing these I realized I should have done several and tied them together for a cage look. Maybe I'll do that next time. The screws on top are under the luggage rack and totally hidden.


    While I had it out I decided to go ahead and address the back seat. I thought back to the different times I have wheeled an SUV and recalled that any time I had a long trip I laid the back seat down to fit more cargo and spare parts. With that in mind, I decided to lay down the back seat of the H2. No fancy hinge ...


    It looks like one solid piece but it's not. I remembered my Blazer having a piece that folded forward with the seat to cover the exposed area left by the seat folding forward. I've never been in an H2 but it's GM so I took a stab at it. The styrene part poking out is the flap. Most of it is covered by Velcro. the pictures make it look more like one solid piece than it does in real life.


    Another piece of styrene for strength and I'm all set to finish carpeting...


    If you look carefully you can see the mounts for the posts sticking up.


    I fabbed up some body mounts like the front with some posts that come down from the interior floor board. I know, this means the chassis mounts to the interior but it's got a piece of angle that should push the force right up into the body.

    With the interior mounted solidly to the body I took a step out of order and decided to address the rear wheel wells. I'll point out that having a spare body for parts, etc, is a great feeling of luxury. If I only had one body I would have just shortened the wheelbase.

    So to "stretch" the rear flares out I heated up a knife and did some melting:


    The plan at this point was to use a heat gun and bend the flare back a little to give it a better angle. It worked too ... but I left the heat on it a bit to long and bubbled the blinker and a little bit of the body on one side. I can replace the blinker but may have to sane a little on the other side. We'll see what happens. This picture shows how much the flare got moved and how much I can re-angle the rear bumper to fit the tire.


    I also went ahead an made up a rear bumper to match the front. I have no idea why I didn't mount it like the front to cover the screws (late night) ... may have to redo it.


    Here you can see how the stretch came out .... and another melted blinker. Must remember to remove those next time. :mrgreen:


    Here is how it all mounts.



    Next up will be to black out the rear wheel wells, fix the blinkers and probably will redo the rear bumper & mounting system.
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