Page 1 of 9 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 82

Thread: Tommy's Class 1 Jeep

  1. #1
    Addicted to RC Tommy R's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Austin, TX, USA
    Posts
    2,332

    Tommy's Class 1 Jeep

    Hey y'all,

    After about a year and a half I got a little bored with my "Boring Toyota". I like it a lot, but Toyotas were already so common and then when RC4WD released the TF2 with an even more detailed Yota body.....well, it really let the wind out of my sails and I lost enthusiasm for that body. Time for something to change... so I decided to retire the body for now. Too much money/labor in it to sell it, really.

    I'm a bit of a Jeep guy and thought it'd be great to make one for Class 1. But the Jeep JK is too big for the small C1 tires so it's out. The New Bright TJ is great, but has too short of a wheelbase. I could make another YJ, but prefer the open top of the New Bright Jeeps. Eventually, I decided to bite the bullet and build a custom Jeep LJ.

    For those unfamiliar, the LJ is a longer wheelbase version of the Jeep TJ. It was only made from '04-'06. And it's just what I'm looking for to replace the Toyota! It would require a lot of custom body work with ABS, which will be a new challenge for me. But you only live once, right? :mrgreen:

    I decided to re-use the chassis from the Toyota since it's well built and a proven performer. Not to mention the rear suspension setup should work well for the dropped bed/interior of the Jeep. The wheelbase should work well for the stretched Jeep, as well. The current transmission location will not work, though. I refuse to cut up the interior and let that spur gear show through. So it'll get a front mounted motor/transmission and a transfer case will go on the skidplate. I have a Felsenfest unit that I'll be using. Eventually, it may all get replaced with a Dinky R/C setup. Here's the chassis as it sits now...


    But how to convert a TJ into an LJ? I've heard horror stories about the material that New Bright uses and how the typical styrene bonding agents are ineffective with it. Well, I did some research and picked up some chemicals that were recommended to me. Figured I'd give them all a try. But first I would need to do some cutting. I mulled this one over for weeks before I made the first cut. But here it is hacked in half and very roughly mocked up on the chassis....in "monster truck" mode. :lol2:


    You'll notice I didn't cut straight across the body. I did this so that when the body is put back together it will not have an easy bending point for the body to flex. With a stepped cut, it should ultimately end up stronger. I'd picked up some styrene and began the task of rejoining the body parts. Once again, I spent a lot of time trying to decide the best method to do this. I wanted it strong and I wanted the body panels to line up properly. Ultimately, I think I settled on an effective plan. But what chemical to use to attach the styrene to the ABS?? I have Bondene, Pro-Weld, Tenax, and even picked up some MEK. I tried them all on some sample parts and the results were mediocre at best. Then last week I was at the hobby store and they had some orange labeled Pastruct Plastic Weld. What the heck, I'll get some. Turns out it's the stuff! It bonded the styrene to the ABS quite well!

    Now that the bonding agent has been determined, it was time to put things back together last night. Here it is with the new side panels and showing off it's new, longer wheelbase.


    Obviously, it has a long way to go. The interior needs to be sealed off and I'll add some metal for support so the new plastic weld isn't the only thing holding it together. But so far, I'm digging it! Here it is again mocked up on the chassis. It'll sit a bit higher than this, of course.


    The body's wheelbase came out to ~11.25". It stretched about 1.5" from stock, if I recall. With the 1/4" stretch that's allowed in Class 1, it'll put me at 11.5" and it should mate up perfectly with the chassis. Since my Class 2 build is on hold for the time being, I hope to pass the time working on this thing. :thumbsup:

    TEAM DRIVER
    LOCKED UP RC
    - SCALE PERFORMANCE PARTS -

  2. #2
    Member bigt2317's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Leander
    Posts
    141
    nice! if only I had the drive that you do with my hobbies. My honcho is sitting in the garage still muddy from the rain fest we had at the lake georgetown comp
    TEAM DRIVER
    CHEATER HONCHO

  3. #3
    Addicted to RC Tommy R's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Austin, TX, USA
    Posts
    2,332
    LOL! I don't know if it's drive. It's more that I don't have a wife or kids to occupy my free time so I gotta do somethin'! :lol2:

    TEAM DRIVER
    LOCKED UP RC
    - SCALE PERFORMANCE PARTS -

  4. #4
    Member bigt2317's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Leander
    Posts
    141
    Quote Originally Posted by Tommy R View Post
    LOL! I don't know if it's drive. It's more that I don't have a wife or kids to occupy my free time so I gotta do somethin'! :lol2:

    Yeah, that's true. If I didn't have a wife and kid, I know for sure I'd have a ton of toys! Probably a Ferrari parked in my HUGE 200' x 60' climate controlled shop that's attached to a small one bedroom shack.
    TEAM DRIVER
    CHEATER HONCHO

  5. #5
    Addicted to RC Tommy R's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Austin, TX, USA
    Posts
    2,332
    Slow progress is still progress, right? :mrgreen: Rather than just relying on some steel or aluminum to secure the body, I'm trying to reconstruct it with styrene. The angle aluminum that is shown will remain (with different hardware) and I may add some steel above the fenderwells. But it's amazingly stout and rigid right now as it sits. BTW, all metal will be painted black to match the rest of the body.

    The conversion isn't yet complete. I'm really hoping to finish it off cleanly before I call it done so I've still got quite a ways to go. But it's getting close... :smokin:






    TEAM DRIVER
    LOCKED UP RC
    - SCALE PERFORMANCE PARTS -

  6. #6
    Addicted to RC STANG KILLA SS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    2,540
    tommy would puting the alum. angle under the body be possible? to hide it? maybe with a little trimming?

    looking good bro!
    2008 TXRCRCA Super Class State Champ
    2009 Runner Up
    and scaler freak :D

  7. #7
    Addicted to RC Tommy R's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Austin, TX, USA
    Posts
    2,332
    Quote Originally Posted by STANG KILLA SS View Post
    tommy would puting the alum. angle under the body be possible? to hide it? maybe with a little trimming?

    looking good bro!
    It would, but it provides a nice curve at the transition. Once it's painted (most likely bedlined), some panhead hardware is used, and the back seat is installed I think it'll barely be noticeable. It looks like a godawful eyesore at the moment! :lol2:

    TEAM DRIVER
    LOCKED UP RC
    - SCALE PERFORMANCE PARTS -

  8. #8
    SCALE PERFORMANCE PARTS Locked Up's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Manor
    Posts
    3,599
    Scale hardware maybe?


    I did see one of the Utah guys has one of these he ran at NWSC. Had a bunch of PSC looking corners/fenders to cover his. Looked awesome.
    LOCKED UP RC
    - SCALE PERFORMANCE PARTS -
    LockedUpRC.com




  9. #9
    Addicted to RC Tommy R's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Austin, TX, USA
    Posts
    2,332
    Yeah, but I'd hoping to not put body armor on it at all. I think I'd likely do body filler/paint before I put armor on it, but we'll see... Some thin gauge aluminum may work.

    The hardware will be painted over and nearly invisible when all is said and done so I'll just use some panhead screws and be done with it.

    TEAM DRIVER
    LOCKED UP RC
    - SCALE PERFORMANCE PARTS -

  10. #10
    Addicted to RC Tommy R's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Austin, TX, USA
    Posts
    2,332
    Okay, I think I've gotten a little burned out on racing (been racing a LOT lately) so I'm looking to tone that down a bit. What better way than getting back onto the LJ project, right? :mrgreen:

    First thing's first, I got a blemished Dinky Split Skid while we wait for the final production parts. It allowed me to do some mock up of the drivetrain. Here the skid is located in the stock location. The Gr7 unit up front had to be moved about a 1/2" rearward or the motor would've been poking out of the front grill. :lol2: I had a shortened MIP shaft that looks perfect for the intermediate shaft. To keep weight down, however, I may try using a plastic shaft in that location since it's pretty high up and I'll need to lower the cg any way I can.


    Today I made a very basic CMS using some 1/8" aluminum. It should be plenty sufficient to hold the Hitec 7950.


    Looking at it from the top, spacing between the motor and servo is extremely tight. Suprisingly, they're not actually touching! But it's literally like the thickness of a sheet of paper between them. Hoping that doesn't cause any glitching issues, but I think it'll be fine.


    Front suspension mocked up and the wheelbase should end up about like this. Still well below the allowed 1/2" of wheelbase stretch allowed in C1. In this case, all the stretch will be toward the front. I'll make sure the bumper sticks out far enough to maintain legality, of course. It's probably fine already, though.


    Next up on the list is to build the track bar. It's going to be a tight fit! The rear suspension will likely be the re-used touring car shock setup I used on the Toyota....unless I cut holes in the bed for shock towers and SCX shocks. I'm now looking for a CLAW winch for the front. I'm going to try to fit a servo winch for the rear. I think I can fit all of the electronics under the body, but the battery may need to go into a "tool box" or something on top. I just don't know if I'll have enough room for it underneath the body.

    But all in all, I'm pretty excited to be working on this rig again... :cool2:

    TEAM DRIVER
    LOCKED UP RC
    - SCALE PERFORMANCE PARTS -

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •