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Thread: Sgtsteve's '57 Chevy Truck Drifter

  1. #1
    Administrator sgtsteve's Avatar
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    Sgtsteve's '57 Chevy Truck Drifter

    Here it is boys and girls, the Sakura. The car arrived last week and it took me about 5 hours to build. Overall it went very smooth but I did find that hardware provided is very cheap, as it it strips very easily. Luckily I had some extras in SS but if I had to do it over again I would have ordered higher quality screws from elsewhere. Overall quality of the car is very good. I dont care for the type of plastic they used as its very hard, therefore screwing into it really puts a hurting on your hands. If I recommended this kit to anyone, I would have to say get the aluminum bulk heads front and rear along with the vertical motor mount right away. This will save you in the long run when its time to maintain the vehicle. As for parts that need to be upgraded right away, I would say get the 19t pulleys and aluminum spur gear adapter. These parts provide a looser tension on the main belt and ensure the spur spins clean, without wobble (not that its bad stock or even noticable while driving). Next week I will be ordering the pulleys, aluminum adapter and vertical motor mount. The motor mount in stock for is a bit of a pain to work with when it comes to adjusting the mesh but its not as bad as some say it is. Personally, I just prefer the motor be mounted to aluminum, along with the diffs to ensure there is no play. The rest of the car, in plastic form, is perfectly fine.
    First impressions on drift capabilities, really good! I had locked both front and rear diffs already and adjusted the shocks based on recommendations I researched. I still need to pick up a spring assortment and put some softer springs in the rear. I also cleared out a little material in the knuckles to allow for a little more steering through, which in the end I think gave me about 10-15% more:thumbsup: I am also liking the motor with the gearing I have right now which is around 7.6 FDR. Once I go to the 19t pulleys (stock is 20t) the FDR will be 8:1, which might be ok but I have bigger pinions to slap on which will bring everything back to where I like.

    Now some pics...






    Good ol Cuda body...until I get the new body and wheels:mrgreen:

    Last edited by sgtsteve; 03-04-2013 at 11:46 AM.


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  2. #2
    Addicted to RC STANG KILLA SS's Avatar
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    dude that looks crazy nice! i cant believe it built in only 5 hours. its got to be pretty well thought out then.
    and im with you. aluminum only adds weight. nothing wrong with plastic (other than motor and spur mount, etc obviously)

    i love how low everything is. ie the shock towers are the hightest thing even over the spur!:eek2: and they are super low too!:eek2:

    i also like the wide rear body mounts. that will keep the body from being all floppy on rough asphalt and look more scale (ie rigid body)

    looks like its even got turnbuckles. the tamiyas dont even come with those. knuckles have 3 nice adjustment holes looks like too.

    any pics of max steering?

    let us know what springs you go with. whats the word on the shocks? smooth? hold oil good? they look nice.

    looks amazing! still amazed you built, adjusted, and drove in 5 hours. i really love the low slung parts/ CG.

    NICE Steve!!!:eek2::thumbsup:
    2008 TXRCRCA Super Class State Champ
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    and scaler freak :D

  3. #3
    Administrator sgtsteve's Avatar
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    Thanks Cory. The shocks are ok, should be fine. They are plastic bodied and the plastic is a little thin in my opinion and will probably end up leaking, besides, the cheap o-rings they provide and the fact that there is only one per shock doesnt help. Im sure using a better o-ring and doubling up on them would be a good move. I will get some steering angle pics up in a bit.

    Did you get your new ride?


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  4. #4
    Administrator sgtsteve's Avatar
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    I would like to get the ackerman setup as close to zero as possible. I have some ideas on how to do it but need to do a little more research. Overall steering is good but could be better. I would probably need to upgrade to aluminum or remove more material but I can live with it as it is now.





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  5. #5
    SCALE PERFORMANCE PARTS Locked Up's Avatar
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    Use the other holes on the steering and your ackerman will be closer to 0.

    :thumbsup:
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  6. #6
    Addicted to RC STANG KILLA SS's Avatar
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    nothing wrong with single o ring. as long as its a decent fit. the double o ring is pretty new as far as RC shocks go.

    i cant see from teh pics are there dog bones or CVD/universals up front?

    looks like steering is pretty good already. looks like 1/8" - 3/16" from hitting the shock.

    to help with the ankerman you want teh mount point closer to the tire.
    ie if you draw a line from the front kingpin, to the rear kingpin, you want the tie rod mount point as close to that "line" as possible.
    having a longer knuckle arm also helps eliminate the straight pull you will run into once you start moding.
    they make some add on plates to help this. you could easily make your own with some thin sheet alum/steel.


    naa, new cars on the slow boat:cry:
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    and scaler freak :D

  7. #7
    Administrator sgtsteve's Avatar
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    Yeah I found a really good explanation on ackerman as it applies to RC and your right about mounting closer to the wheel. The other mounting holes on the arm arent any closer and I dont really dont want to fool with it. At the end of the day I paid $109 shipped for it and the idea was to stay as cheap as possible but still have a good car, which it is. There is still electronics and body/wheels to get but I can do that over time as I can use the GT car's stuff for now as I dont really plan to race in that class for a while.

    Those are the stock CVD's up front:thumbsup:


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  8. #8
    Senior Member eric113's Avatar
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    Steve, wonder if the sakura drift... Using the steering would bolt on ?

  9. #9
    Administrator sgtsteve's Avatar
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    they might fit but the angles/hole placements look identical, so no gain there.


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  10. #10
    SCALE PERFORMANCE PARTS Locked Up's Avatar
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    Steve,
    For your application (behind the wheel), try using the other holes on there that are farther from the wheel to get a zero ackerman setup.

    Just trust me.


    Takes 5 minutes to try and if I'm wrong I'll give you a free small t-shirt for Chandler.
    :mrgreen:
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