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Thread: Tamiya TA-05 VDF 2

  1. #11
    Administrator sgtsteve's Avatar
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    What if you mount the connecting tie rod to the inner holes and adjust it so that the bell crank arms are parallel like this



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  2. #12
    Addicted to RC STANG KILLA SS's Avatar
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    thats what the "grip setup" does. tried that, didnt help
    however whatever the final fix is, i think id still rather prefer the bellcranks to be parrallel. so ill probly leave them that way. however i am curious as too what belcrank toe in or out plays in making the outer wheel turn less or more than the inner wheel though.
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  3. #13
    Addicted to RC STANG KILLA SS's Avatar
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    well my hunch seems to have been right. a longer zero ackerman knuckle

    i grabed a TLT axle stay and bolted it on to make a temporary extension.

    first just a straight extention. on the left you can see there is still ackerman in the knuckle with the less than 90* angle, and on the right i still have the same problem 180*


    so i angled the extention to make a zero ackerman knuckle, ie "exactly" 90* on the left. and it fixed my problem! no more locking at full throw! steering works freely with the proper, less than 180* on the right.
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  4. #14
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    well i got some extentions made. took two TLT knuckles, cut the arms off and used those for my extentions. drilled a hole and added the ball end.


    made some new longer outer tie rods and got it all squared up.
    well then the center tie rod was hitting the bellcrank bearing mounts before the knuckle would max out. so i put some offset ends on the center tierod, then it hit the bottom of the bellcrank arm before the knuckle would max out.


    so i took it off completely just to check the outer parts and realized i created even more problems than i solved. bellcrank hits motor mount etc. because knuckle arm is longer than belcrank arm. outer tie rod now goes 180* when pushing giving opposite problem. center tie rod would be smashing into everything, etc etc etc.


    so basically im back at square one.
    only good news my batteries and reciever came in today.
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  5. #15
    Administrator sgtsteve's Avatar
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    Did the batteries come with wires?


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  6. #16
    Addicted to RC STANG KILLA SS's Avatar
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    yeah. but i ordered the 50C because they showed the wires in the pics. i was too worried the 40C that didnt show them wouldnt come with them
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  7. #17
    Administrator sgtsteve's Avatar
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    Thats understandable. I will be ordering a new battery to replace my bad one on Thursday but 40C is the max for the GT spec class so thats what I will have to get.


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  8. #18
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    drastic times, call for drastic measures. removed the Right bellcrank completely and went with a solid tierod setup. works awesome! its got more angle left in it, but fine for now. just glad to have a solution.
    ill sleeve the tie rods with thin aluminum tube later for strength and looks.



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  9. #19
    Addicted to RC Tommy R's Avatar
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    Cory, you're not getting any weird bumpsteer with that setup? I suspect you'll have some unpredictable handling characteristics running that kind of steering arrangement on an IFS suspension...

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  10. #20
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    hmm, you might have a point Tommy. that had never crossed my mind. sadly at this point id take bump steer over a paper weight car though
    my only saving grace is that for a drifter the suspension probly never moves more than 1/8" max. this might not be the end all fix, but for now out of the million combinations ive tried this is the only one that comes close to even being usable.
    i think yesterday i kind of figured out why im having so much trouble. the steering bellcranks are MUCH further apart on this car to miss the motor. making the outer tierods crazy short. at least i think its got to be part of the problem.

    ill look into the bump steer. any specific tests i can do? what am i looking for?
    2008 TXRCRCA Super Class State Champ
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