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Thread: Tamiya TA-05 VDF 2

  1. #21
    Administrator sgtsteve's Avatar
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    I would think by cycling the suspension up and down, look for the wheels to turn any little bit. Maybe pick the front end off the ground and compress one of the A-arms. Your right though, during drifting I dont see alot of suspension travel.


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  2. #22
    Addicted to RC STANG KILLA SS's Avatar
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    looks like your right ive got a bit. at full lock if i compress the inner arm i can get the outer axle to swing like 1-2*.
    if i compress both i do get some toe in 2-3* on both sides.
    the side with only 1 tie rod connected to it seem to be worse on both tests.
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  3. #23
    Addicted to RC Tommy R's Avatar
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    It may not be an issue, particularly for a drift car, but if the handling is pretty erratic it'll be something to look into further.

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  4. #24
    Addicted to RC STANG KILLA SS's Avatar
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    well the bump steer thing was bothering me so i started over again. got out the dremel (bulkheads) and tried the "grip setup"
    it works! its a tight rope walk between getting close to the 180* pull and the ball cup maxing out. but i found a decent balance between the two. i used a offset tierod end on the outside to help out the ball cup maxing out. (would give anything if the end ball cup was vertical like the VDF 1)

    it still gets to about 175*, and has a slight jolt/hang up to it when it first trys to pull the knuckle arm off the C at full steering, but at least its not fully locking/jamming up anymore.





    does anyone know what effecting using the inner holes VS the outer holes for the center tie rod has as far as ackerman or which one would get a little more angle out of the outer wheel?
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  5. #25
    Addicted to RC STANG KILLA SS's Avatar
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    i cant for the life of me figure out what Tamiya was thinking when they designed this car. ug. motor mount screw rubs the belt. worse than the picture shows, it actually bows the belt out. gonna go to a button head and just hope for the best. will still rub it when running, but hopefully the button head will minimize shreding.

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  6. #26
    Administrator sgtsteve's Avatar
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    Larger pully will help too but you shouldnt have to swap out parts to get things working right for the $$ they charge.


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  7. #27
    Senior Member eric113's Avatar
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    Cory have you swapped out the cvd's for the stock cvd's ?It sound likes your maxing out the cvd's.

  8. #28
    Addicted to RC STANG KILLA SS's Avatar
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    no the CVDs still have another 5+ degrees left in them.
    i know alot of this thread probly doenst make sence with just pics. kinda hard to explain without seeing in person. lol its a nightmare:Shaking:
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  9. #29
    Addicted to RC STANG KILLA SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STANG KILLA SS View Post
    does anyone know what effecting using the inner holes VS the outer holes for the center tie rod has as far as ackerman or which one would get a little more angle out of the outer wheel?
    well i got to thinking about this, so i measured all the dimensions of the VDFs steering points and drew it up in Autocad. it turns out the inner hole vs outer hole for the center tie rod does make a differnce. a pretty big one.
    when the inner knuckle arm is maxed out against the "C" the OUTER holes on the bellcranks will give the outer bellcrank an extra 4 degrees! and do to mechanical advantage of the bellcranks being longer than the knuckle arms, this should translate to and extra 5-6 degrees of outer wheel angle.
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  10. #30
    Addicted to RC STANG KILLA SS's Avatar
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    shes finally finished and RTR!
    running a Holmes Hobbies BR-XL esc and Holmes Hobbies 27T Sport.
    wire routing on the tiny chassis was a bit of a pain, but got it all cramed in there.





    took it for quick spin in the kitchen and it seem really good already without even touching the suspension, and the front being way too soft. its insanely predictable and responsive. tiny figure 8s were a breeze. very excited/anxious now!
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