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Thread: Tamiya TA-05 VDF 2

  1. #1
    Addicted to RC STANG KILLA SS's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Tamiya TA-05 VDF 2

    picked up a new drifter!


    Steve had good things to say about the Savox servos so i took his recomendation and tried one. went with the low profile 1251mg, supposed to be fast and light.


    3 Racing front 1-way


    picked up some Overdose 45.5mm 52 degree steel CVDs to replace the Tamiya VDF 46mm 42 degree (aluminum?) ones


    time to start building!
    2008 TXRCRCA Super Class State Champ
    2009 Runner Up
    and scaler freak :D

  2. #2
    Administrator sgtsteve's Avatar
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    Dang Cory, thats a sweet ride! What body are you going to run?


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  3. #3
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    damn..let me know when you guys go drifting..

  4. #4
    Addicted to RC STANG KILLA SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sgtsteve View Post
    Dang Cory, thats a sweet ride! What body are you going to run?
    thanks Steve, sadly it cant make the driver any better:lol2:
    ive got a spare 350Z ive been holding onto for a couple years. nearly identical to my current one, honestly i think its just a different sticker pack they include.:Shaking:

    3 hours down and i got the front and rear diff bulkheads done. Tamiya could learn alot from Schumacher and others, seems like after all these years they would have a better system.
    2008 TXRCRCA Super Class State Champ
    2009 Runner Up
    and scaler freak :D

  5. #5
    Administrator sgtsteve's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STANG KILLA SS View Post
    thanks Steve, sadly it cant make the driver any better:lol2:
    ive got a spare 350Z ive been holding onto for a couple years. nearly identical to my current one, honestly i think its just a different sticker pack they include.:Shaking:

    3 hours down and i got the front and rear diff bulkheads done. Tamiya could learn alot from Schumacher and others, seems like after all these years they would have a better system.
    I agree, if you suck, you suck! At least you have fun doing it though:mrgreen:

    Good thing about the Tamiya's though is quality. Top notch, even back when I built my TB02 I could tell. On the bright side, once its built, you shouldnt have to worry about it. Changing out the spur, adjusting the motor and pullies looks well thought out and easy enough to do:thumbsup:


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  6. #6
    Addicted to RC STANG KILLA SS's Avatar
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    got another 1-1/2 hours in
    got the motor mount, front and rear CF vertical braces, and steering bellcranks in. the steering bellcranks dont run parrallel, they are "toed" in as per the manual... intresting.

    2008 TXRCRCA Super Class State Champ
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    and scaler freak :D

  7. #7
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    Pulleys, Belts, and Tensioners

    2008 TXRCRCA Super Class State Champ
    2009 Runner Up
    and scaler freak :D

  8. #8
    Administrator sgtsteve's Avatar
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    Looking good Cory! Now you just need to find a pair of balls so you can come out for Sundays crawl:mrgreen:


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  9. #9
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    here you can see the difference between the VDF 2 and Overdose CVDs
    top: Stock (rears are blue aluminum [shown], and front are black steel)
    bottom: Overdose
    the flared stub axles definatly give them more angle


    axles & A arms installed


    Last edited by STANG KILLA SS; 12-30-2012 at 02:34 PM.
    2008 TXRCRCA Super Class State Champ
    2009 Runner Up
    and scaler freak :D

  10. #10
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    TRF Special Dampers. amazing shocks. theyve got a single clear silicone o-ring in them, im anxious to see how well they hold oil. running Axial 30wt front and rear for now.


    pre roller


    now heres where i ran into a major issue. the steering litterally locks itself up at full throw. ie the tie rod goes PAST a straight pull situation and goes past 180 degrees even, and locks itself, it litterally cant go back the other way no matter how hard you pull on the bellcranks. only way to get it out is to grab the threaded CVD shaft and pull the knuckle back straight. its impossible to move the steering bellcranks. hard to explain without video.


    i think if i had a set of these i could move the outer tie rod point out and closer to the hinge pin line it would fix this. insuring the outer tie rod stays less than 180 degrees with the knuckle.


    now while playing with this trying to find a solution i ran across this in the back of the manual. its a "grip steering" setup. it totally changes the steering geometry.
    it moves the center tie rod to the inner holes, which make the bell cranks run parrelell. it also move the outer tierods inner mount to the END of the bellcrank, instead of on TOP. not sure if this would help any.


    here is the stock setup.
    2008 TXRCRCA Super Class State Champ
    2009 Runner Up
    and scaler freak :D

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