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Thread: sgtsteve's Class 0 D90

  1. #1
    Administrator sgtsteve's Avatar
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    sgtsteve's Class 0 D90

    A few guys and myself in our local club, TXRCRCA, are looking to add a Class 0 to our lineup.
    The parameters we are tossing right now are as follows:

    95% tire coverage
    Stock bodies and fender openings
    No WB stretch
    OEM tire sizes with trail/mild tread patterns
    Mild/no lifts
    No (added) flares
    Manditory interior
    DD/factory/trail looks
    No UD/OD gears
    Focus on scale, fun, and simplicity

    Ive always wanted to do a proper build for this old beat up D90 body and this is my chance. Ultimately I will pick up a new body but this one works perfectly to get things setup"thumbsup"

    Brief parts list:

    Axles - RC4WD Cast Yota axles
    Wheels - RC4WD 1.55 Landies
    Tires - RC4WD 1.55 Rock Crusher
    Chassis - Axial SCX10 - near perfect fit, only had to cut off about 1/4 inch from the rear
    Tranny/transfer case - Axial SCX10/?


    So far I have the CMS, rear 4 link truss and front 3 link w/panhard bar made and painted. I also have the suspension mounts done but the SCX10 shocks are too tall in the rear so I will either mount them angled in towards the inner/center of the chassis or go with shorter shocks. I also found that the trans is sitting way to high to fit an uncut interior so looks like I will be doing a transfer case once I can find a good deal on one"thumbsup" I will still use the SCX10 trans but mounted up front. Plans include removing the seats in the rear and making a few items from styrene to replace them"thumbsup"

    Front with no body - need to redo the servo mounts with a slightly thicker steel.



    Profile - chassis ride height.



    Body height.



    This pic is a little off, the sidewall lugs stick out approx. 1/16~1/8 of an inch if that. The rear tire in the pic gives a better look.


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  2. #2
    Addicted to RC STANG KILLA SS's Avatar
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    love the stance. first pic looks like its 90% droop?

    do you think with a weathered paint job that body is saveable?
    2008 TXRCRCA Super Class State Champ
    2009 Runner Up
    and scaler freak :D

  3. #3
    Administrator sgtsteve's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STANG KILLA SS View Post
    love the stance. first pic looks like its 90% droop?

    do you think with a weathered paint job that body is saveable?
    At first I didn't, but as I got to re-attaching the top and filling in some of the bigger issues I think it is. My only hang up at this point would be the windows on the roof line. They have this curve to them that I don't think I can replicate. I think RC4WD sells the accessories for their D90 which I might get but don't recall if that includes the glass, probably not though. And your right about the droop. I don't typically run that much but kind of have too with these tall shocks and short range of motion Im going after. I still have a sweet set of touring car shocks that I might use, in which case the droop would probably only be 50% and the wheel would have just enough movement to tuck and droop in proper amounts.


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  4. #4
    Addicted to RC STANG KILLA SS's Avatar
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    do you have the grill and everything?

    wasn't really knocking it(droop), Im just not to that point yet on the jk and was curious if I would have to do the same to get the stance where after. touring shocks maybe the way to go.
    2008 TXRCRCA Super Class State Champ
    2009 Runner Up
    and scaler freak :D

  5. #5
    Administrator sgtsteve's Avatar
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    Yes, I have the grill.

    Stop hatin':)


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  6. #6
    Administrator sgtsteve's Avatar
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    Took the front axle off this morning to get better pics of the 3-link setup. Keep in mind that my metal working skills are far from my styrene skills and those are mediocre:mrgreen:

    For the front, the side with the panhard bar is made up of 3 pieces. I could have tried making it a single piece but in the end I wanted to keep things simple and spend less time out in the 100deg heat. The 3 pieces consist of the link mount brazed to 3/16th tube which is brazed to a thin piece of sheet steel which is what mounts to the axle. For the lower links, I took a piece of slightly thicker sheet steel, cut it out to basically an L shape, then made the bends and drilled the holes. The panhard bar mount is another piece of sheet steel simply bent up and holes drilled. So basically its several sandwiched layers of sheet steel.





    I did find that if you trim approx. 3/16" off the stock SCX10/AX10 steering link, that there enough threads left in the tube to securely and accurately use it on the Yota axles"thumbsup"





    The rear 4-link is basically a one-piece which was easier obviously easier to make.





    I hope this helps guys!


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  7. #7
    Addicted to RC STANG KILLA SS's Avatar
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    and then?
    2008 TXRCRCA Super Class State Champ
    2009 Runner Up
    and scaler freak :D

  8. #8
    Administrator sgtsteve's Avatar
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    And then I mounted my old R2! Ive had this thing for years and always wanted to use it but never got around to it. Because the interior sits so low I cant use the axial tranny I planned on so a transfer case will have to go in. I mounted the R2 simply by cutting a little out of the top rail of the chassis so it could fit, then cut out a mounting plate, welded it on and there it is. I really like how low it sits and the servo still fits the way I want it. I also redid the crossmember up front to beefier steel and did a 90deg bend to close off the front of the chassis. Tomorrow I will counter-sink the holes on the mounting plate so I can get some screws to sit flush.







    Now I can start planning the body mounts and figure out where to put the electronics.


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  9. #9
    Administrator sgtsteve's Avatar
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    I have the body mounted, with the exception of the front, and the only thing left there is to glue the magnets in place. Like my H2 build, I did a pivot mount for the rear which you can kind of see in this pic. I can better pics if anyone asks. In the second pic you see that I mounted the interior to the chassis. I did this because I wanted the battery to sit behind the front seats.











    To hide the battery, and still give easy access, I made a hinged flap. Right now the flap is held in place by the seats but I will need to figure something else out because the weight of the battery, in a roll over, will easily push it open.











    Steering servo and winch servo mounted and front body mount in place (again, just need to glue the magnets in place).







    Spare tire mounted and rear bumper made from aluminum. Nothing fancy here, just simple but strong.







    I need to lower the front by raising the shock mount up a bit and actually lower the rear shock mounts a bit to bring the back up. Once I get that done, the truck will be right at 50/50 droop at full weight. This should give me just the right amount of articulation.







    I picked up some more paint to give this old body a fresh coat. Rear bumper will be gloss black and the white styrene will most likely be replaced by black styrene once it gets here0 Hopefully tomorrow I can make up a front bumper and be pretty much ready for paint. Im not sure what I will do with the rear cargo space but Im leaning towards a camping rig.


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  10. #10
    Administrator sgtsteve's Avatar
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    Here are the LockedUpRC Scale Pro Hubs, front and rear mounted on RC4WD scale Yota axles and 1.55 Landies. I ended up having to cut only about 2mm from the front shafts and 1mm from the rears (and then add two thin spacers to get the look I wanted. You will also see I have the LockedUpRC acorn nuts on there. I will cover those in a bit. Oh, and the hubs are raw aluminum at the moment, I do plan to detail them before this weekend.

    Scale Front Pro Hubs link

    Scale Rear Pro Hubs link

    Front



    Rear - without the acorn nuts



    Front with the hub removed so you can see how much of the shaft sticks out.



    The hubs are very nearly a perfect fit diameter wise, but did need to be shaved down just a tad. Patrick knows the exact measurement but I think it was .15mm, basically the thickness of the powder coating.



    Im in a rush now to get as much detail into this rig as possible so it looks presentable for this weekends Rock the Lake 4 so I don't have a full update yet but will soon"thumbsup"

    Quick note on the acorns...They are 2-56 hardware and I believe the RC4WD screws are 2mm so you will need to pick up some 2.-56 screws to make these work. I could only find 1/2" long screws so they needed to be cut down to 3/8 so the acorn would hit the wheel.


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